Monday, September 28, 2009

Vigil, chapter 2: The End

5:00 PM, Monday September 28, 2009

Bach’s Violin Concerto for Violin and Orchestra in E Major BWV 1042. 3rd movement; Allegro assai. That was the music playing when Ed took his last breath, a little before noon today. I’m glad I was there, not so much for myself, because frankly, I’m sort of with the Navajo on this whole death thing; holding a dying loved one’s hand, however noble the concept, is in practice rather upsetting, to say the least. For one thing, it leaves a very sticky memory, that I have a hunch will be very hard to be quit of. I doubt I could afford a full blown Navajo Holyway sing, but at least a good, purifying sweat lodge seems in order. Gotta be one out west somewhere, where a well-behaved white-eyes would be welcome.  And since out west is where Hunter S. and the Sabbatmobile await my return, I’ve got to back out sometime.

On the other hand, letting a loved one –or anyone, for that matter- die alone unnecessarily seems just way bone-deep wrong, so wahdahyahgunna’do? Put on some Bach, hold a hand, and just be there, I guess. All the “how to do this” hospice pamphlets suggest that talking to the dying is important, so I talked too. I hope that at the very least, Ed didn’t find all this irritating; maybe he was sick to death of Bach, and would have preferred I just shut up, turn out the light and stop bothering him. He didn’t say one way or the other. I was able to alert mom in time for her to return and be with him at the last moment, for which she was profoundly grateful. That was very important to her, and the truth is?   Ed really did seem to hang in there, by the slenderest of threads, until she arrived. I know, I know; no way to prove that this wasn’t just coincidence. But still. And then too; lore is chock-full of stories suggesting that such things do occur, and occur often. And lore is not to be lightly dismissed; lore is, after all, the well from which humans draw the stories we tell each other about the way things are, otherwise known as, “reality”.

And now it’s the blizzard of phone calls, banal decisions, food-gifts, tears and stories, and all the rest of the death-ritual falderal my people do. I understand my role, know my lines. As an angry young man I rejected all this, on angry young man principle. But I’m not an angry young man anymore, and while I may not know exactly what I am now instead, I do understand this much; that it’s not about me, and that to just play the role as best I can, is probably the best I can do.

Vigil, chapter 1

3:00 AM, Minneapolis VA

The character and tone of my reports are going to take a sharp turn, at least for awhile.

I’m alone with my step-father, Ed. On deathwatch. I suppose “vigil” would be a gentler term, but I’m not feeling like pulling punches just now, and since I have no editor (this is a blog, after all) let’s say it is what it is.

The plane from Portland descended into a sad, gray Twin Cities twilight, and by the time the train from the airport left me standing on the VA station platform, it was dark, windy and cold, making the short walk to the hospital seem dramatically longer than it actually was. I sent mom and her sister Rose off to check into a hotel for the night; mom needed a break, and a chance to (try to, anyway) sleep in a real bed, instead of the lounge chair she’s been dozing off and on in for the last several nights. So now it’s just me and Ed, and the night shift nurses. Emotionally surreal, but oddly, professionally, familiar; am I the dutiful son, or the R.N.? This sensory landscape is way too familiar; the lighting, the sounds, the machinery. And the breathing. The gasping, halting breath to which we’ve mis-assigned the Latin name “agonal” respiration; gasp-in-and-out- full stop, pause, then another gasp-in-out, stop, another, stop, another, stop… the brain stem’s auto pilot, hardwired for one thing and one thing only; keep breathing, keep breathing, keep breathing. It’s the morphine, Morpheus descending, coming for to carry him home. Morphine blocks the pain. Without it, sheer, protracted agony as the runaway train of cancer cells tears through the lungs, the liver, through everything. Morphine keeps that pain away, but also depresses respiration. Morpheus lulls even the autopilot; they are both very, very old gods, ancient enemies. The cancer will continue to grow, this sort, very fast. As it does, the morphine infusion rate will be increased, which will further depress respiration… It’s a finite equation, a triangulation race between pain, morphine, and breath.

Not surprisingly I suppose, I slept only fitfully last night. And dreamt, vividly, almost violently, about working in hospital, as an R.N. It’s been 25 years since I set foot professionally in a hospital, and I can’t remember when I last had a nursing dream. But last night I did; it was not a sweet dream. I was just suddenly there, on unit 10-A in St. Mary’s Hospital, understaffed of course, patients coming and going on gurneys, falling out of bed, ringing call signals, nurses –some of whom I recognized, even as they appeared, aged naturally by decades- were rushing all around me with med carts, bedding, food trays, medical machinery of all sorts- and I could do nothing. I didn’t know any of the patient’s names, or which were assigned to my care. I couldn’t read; the medication and procedure schedules were just a garbled mess of meaningless numbers and letters to me. I didn’t know where any of the supplies were kept, and I couldn’t seem to actually put my hands on anything, pick anything up. I tried to ask for help, tried to warn the other nurses that I was lost and useless, but my words were weirdly silent in the din of the unit, and they all seemed totally unaware of me. But not the patients; they reached out to me, spoke to me, asked for my help. But I couldn’t help. I tried to, but somehow, I couldn’t touch them either, any more than I could pick up a towel or cup. Even to them, I was a ghost, a helpless, panicky, anguished ghost. It seems to me that more than once, I surfaced from this dream into an awareness that I was in bed, dreaming, but each time I drifted back down into the same dream, like drowning, until finally it was morning, and I awoke for good, shaken, the emotional residue of the dream draining from my consciousness more slowly than the dream itself.

The nurses will come in to turn Ed in bed every couple of hours. When people sleep, even in “a good night’s sleep” they move around a lot. “Toss and turn”. This is natural and healthy; if we didn’t, the pressure on particular spots on the body –the hips, the shoulders, the heels- would restrict circulation to the point of starving those pressure points to death, resulting, eventually, in pressure ulcers. Bedsores. I’ve treated tunneling pressure ulcers deep enough to completely bury three or four golf balls. So we move while we sleep. But Ed’s not sleeping. He’s not awake, but sleep is not where he is. He won’t turn naturally on his own anymore, so nurses will turn him; from his back, to his right side, to his back... When they turn him onto his left side, the weight of his right lung –and whatever else is in there- will rest on his heart, a heart already stressed from trying to supply sufficient oxygen to the body without a sufficient supply coming from his compromised breathing. Compromised by the morphine. The morphine necessary to keep the pain away.

Welcome to hospice.


I always think of Ed first as an artist; a painter, a pianist, a sculptor. Collage-ist? Drawer? Anyway, whatever the proper name, though Ed worked in a diverse variety of media, it was always just that; a medium through which he expressed his creative ideas, his intuitions, and especially, in Ed’s case, his passions. Like any good artist Ed very much appreciated the quality of things; pigments and gels, wood grain and stains, tone and timbre, but it is ultimately passion that animates Ed’s work, because passions are ultimately what animated him.  Ed was also a scholar, an intellectual who read voraciously, deeply, and widely.  As a young man Ed devoted himself for a time to the seminary, and his relationship to his faith and the church remained an animating passion to the end.  Ed devoted himself to serving his country in the most direct and selfless way possible; he did three tours of duty in Viet-Nam, on the ground, as a United States Marine, serving as a surgical technician in forward based field hospitals, discharging his duty not only with honor and distinction, but with enduring compassion for those most in need the of the tender, skilled attention he bestowed with such incredible grace and strength.  His duty the military thus discharged, Ed then devoted himself to teaching art in the public schools, which -trust me- sometimes makes combat duty look like a walk in the park.  And ultimately, Ed devoted himself to my family.  Point here is, Ed has taken on and grappled with a greater swath of what the world offers than most people I know, and through all the struggles and doubts (and they are legion, for Ed was also a restless soul, haunted by doubt and unwilling to accept mediocrity) as well as the satisfactions and rewards, the constant throughout has been that he really, genuinely cares. I’ve never known Ed to ironically slouch around an idea; if it matters, then by god, it matters. And this quality not only allows Ed to engage his art with a rare sort of guileless honesty, but also makes him, in my opinion, a great teacher. Which is in fact how I first encountered Ed; as my high school art teacher. Now in the interest of full disclosure I have to say that while Ed was the Art teacher in my high school, he was not actually my teacher, until much later. As a result of my own peculiar neuroses, I gravitated into the orbit of the Music/Theatre/Social Studies crowd, and never really got to know Ed when I was in high school. But I was aware enough to know this; that Ed's students adored him, and that those adoring students included some of the meanest, most incorrigible kids in the district. He was getting through, not only to the more or less obedient kids who were always expected to “do just fine” and did, but he was also getting through to kids who had made a public stand against giving a damn about anything, especially anything a teacher had to offer.  But they got turned on –hard and bright- to art, because Ed was able to show them how to tap their own innate passions and talents, always there but buried under heaps of small-minded ignorance and low expectations so sadly typical of small town rural America.  It surprised everyone, most especially, those lost souls. Ed changed their lives, and even through the teen-age fog of my own self-absorbtion, I could see that.  And I respected that.  But is was years later, after he an my mother married (my own father passed away before Ed arrived to take up his teaching post in my home town) that I finally got to really know Ed, who never treated me with anything but tenderness and genuine respect- even when I didn’t deserve it.  He became an unflagging supporter of my own ventures into, as the great American poet and songwriter Greg Brown named it, “the poet game”; the restless, never-ending search for truth, beauty and meaning beneath the surface of the everyday everyday. We talked art. We talked religion, we talked philosophy and food- and his passion was contagious, in the very best way imaginable.  Ed was a good man, at once strong and gentle, who did, finally, with never so much as a whisper of his far, far deeper life experience, become one of my most cherished teachers.  And I, incorrigible as any, as ever, came to love him.  I will miss him so much.  I hope, somehow, he knows this.


And now I’ll stay with him. So he won’t be alone. So mom can rest a bit. And be mindful of my own slow, deep breath.

Sunday, September 27, 2009

Time to grow up and go home, Peter Pan

I've been anticipating this of course, but was not quite fully prepared for the force with which real life would burst my little Lost Boy fantasy bubble.  If you've read as far as the first entry of this blog, you know that in mid-June, my friend and stepfather, Ed Rodakowski, was diagnosed with a very aggressive form of lung cancer.  Well the time has come; Mom want's me there, so it's time to go. And when it rains it pours; that was only one of four -count 'em, four, communiques I received within the past three days that yanked back HARD on the bit of my actual life assignment, as teacher, colleague, husband, father, even grandfather.  Goodbye, Peter Pan.  Everyone else; my flight is scheduled to touch down at 7:15 PM, CST.  I'll be there by tonight.

Saturday, September 26, 2009

This is where there is no picture of a salmon

In spite of the fact that I angled the hell of a section of the Trask river just this side of Tillamook known as Hospital Hole, and a bit of the Tillamook river at bit further west of there, the only fish I caught were...

  
... Prickly Sculpin.  Annoying little bait thieves.  Oregon's answer to the Midwest's Bullhead.  I released them, but later on I came upon some locals, fishing from a public access dock who were catching lots of these... it was a pretty ghastly, genocidal scene.  Evidently, local salmon anglers have serious issues with this species. On the upside, I did personally eyewitness several large salmonids (presumably fall run Chinook, but hard to say with these glimpses) breaching in the Tillamook river.  So I know they're in there.
 
But even with no desirable catch, a day spent along a river on a beautiful September day has it's charms.  And when this is the view from your "office"...


... staying in to work is not a bad alternative. This is the view from Brewin' in the Wind, the Coffee Shop/Cafe in Oceanside where I've taken to spending my mornings working on Pylos, the play I'm collaborating on with playwright Jon Berry. (And for those of you with legitimate concerns for my scholarly productivity, this being my sabbatical and all; if you will direct your focus on the lower left quadrant of this picture, you will see the corner of a heavily notated page of the script.  I enter these notes as evidence of productivity, exhibit A.)

Have company this weekend, gotta go be sociable.

Thursday, September 24, 2009

"A two bourbon twilight, fog from God's cigar...*


 Short 'n sweet: some random images from my day of reconnaissance, in preparation for my day of fishing. (Tomorrow, 1:00 PM - 7:00 PM PST to catch the incoming tide in the estuarine Trask & Tillamook rivers, for fall run Chinook).

Ocean Bay Spit. (That's the name of the beach, though it could be a name for a Portland punk band.  Do they still make punk bands?) I thought the fish-shape of this chunk of waterlogged wood was sorta' cool, given it's locational context.  It must have weighed over fifty pounds, and was at least a mile away from the Sabbatmobile, or I might have taken it as a treasure. 


Had lunch at The Fisherman's Korner, Garibaldi Point; one oyster and one razor clam.  No I'm not dieting: the oyster (ordered as an oyster shooter) was a Netarts oyster the size of a hen's egg, and the clam, flattened and deep fried, was the size of a two egg omlette.  Garibaldi is a blue collar, combination lumber and fishing town; this marina shares a large, industrial park-ish area with a Coast Guard station, two bar/restaurants (the Korner being one of those) a seafood distribution warehouse and at least three charter fishing operations, and to get to it, you have to drive through the middle of a busy lumber mill, dodging forklifts slinging loads of raw logs around.  It was sorta late in the day for lunch, but too early for the Korner's evening crowd, so I was alone in the lounge, save for five guys arranged around one booth.  These guys was real fisherman-ish, and not sports fisherman- pros, that work big boats for a living.  Could have walked into that bar right out of the pages of a seafaring saga.

Bar jetty, at the jaws of Tillamook bay. Way too rough and windy today; monster on-shore wind blasting sea mist into a hazy cloud that left a thin layer of salt-grime on everything in it's path. But I'm told that rock fish, cabezon, greenling and even the occasional ling cod can be had along the rocks, and the chinook run right up the mouth of the bay here. But this is a pretty intimidating fishing hole, even in fair weather; just figuring out how to get your bait to where the fish are without getting soaked or crashing on the rocks yourself is a challenge, and then if you're lucky enough to hook one, the trouble really starts. Not for the casual tourist; you have about as much chance going in as the fish does coming out.

Another windy, kinda spooky night alone here.  Big gusts cause sounds like footfalls upstairs, and I left a window open so they swing the door up there too, which then emits classic radio suspense-drama sound effect groans....

...........better go check it out.

* Greg Brown, Spring and All

Wednesday, September 23, 2009

"...risked it all upon the sea, to make a better life." *


As you can see, I made it to the coast.  Hunter S. again diggin' the sunset.  He seems to have decided that this is his primary responsibility as my one and only crew member; diggin' stuff.  Must be nice to never have to drive or pay for gas.

Spent the next day on another hike, with Al and Sandy both.  Along Fall River this time; no vertical climb today, but the mature second growth Lodge Poles and clear-blue stream provided plenty of sensory reward, and conversation was easy.  And we did a lot of that; all through the day, into the evening and over a fantastic dinner at Joolz, a "middle east meets wild west" restaurant in Bend -which, by the way, is a really cool town with lots to offer foodies and ranchers, musicians and farmers, and connoisseurs of every persuasion.  It's also a boom town that got hit hard by the collapse of the housing industry, but still... very nice place, and located very nicely. Sort of like a dry side Eugene.  (I bet that will piss some people off in both towns!)  And we continued -yak yak yak- until one by one, we fell to exhaustion and hit the sack.

Now lest you think this was simply a side effect of my having no one but a stuffed toy and myself to talk to for days on end, I will tell you that it's always like been like with us.  I reckon it has more to do with our being very close at a considerable distance. Odd concept I suppose, but quite true, at least in my case; though separated by many years and miles, these lasting friendships -all seeded in "those college years" as it turns out-  have held fast.  And so, when the rare play date is arranged, the hours together become very precious.  After all, there's a hell of a lot of catching up to do. 

Next morning, after another of Sandy's nice homemade breakfasts (German pancake this time -with special hot peppers from New Mexico that I don't think the German's would approve of, but that I heartily did) it was "to the sabBatmobile" once more. Headed northwest  out of Madras on route 26, which cuts right through the Warm Springs Confederated Tribes reservation.  Which is where I met Joannie, hitchen' to Portland to see her son, wheelchair bound since a bullet put him there at age 17.  It was his 50th birthday, but Joannie's car was broke down in Salem, where she had been visiting one of her three daughters.  A friend was supposed to have accompanying Joannie on this Portland visit, but he "chickened out", so she said "go ahead and go home then, I'll hitch by myself."  Which she was doing when I saw her, walking over loose rocks and boulders just off a very narrow shoulder of a busy two way road, turning to thumb every vehicle that whizzed by her.  Which including the sabBatmobile, at first. Seeing someone's grandma trying to navigate rough ground next to a very whizzy road, not to mention hitchhiking in the first place... well, what would you do?  Yes, she could have been an axe murderer, I had no way of knowing for certain.  Or more likely, a drunk; you know them drunkin' injuns.  Well I sure couldn't let myself behave that way, so I turned around, telling myself; how bad can it be?  She probably just wants to go the road a ways, to visit someone, or maybe to the casino several miles up, maybe she works there. And always try to keep these words of Hunter S. Thompson to heart; "When the going gets weird, the weird turn pro."  I'm nothing if not a good improviser, so I pull over and open the passenger door.  "Thanks a lot" she says as she maneuvers herself uphill and into the seat .  I say "where are you going to?"  "Portland" she says.  "Wow" I say in all honesty; "all the way to Portland."  A good three hours away, and exactly where I'm going.  But, whahdahyahgonnadoo?  So we're off, and it's not long before I know a whole lot about Joannie's family; her son in the wheelchair, and the one fishing the Columbia, the tall daughter still back home trying to straighten out some sort of student loan thing for community college, and the other two; one in Salem who does beadwork and another holding out on returning some money Joannie loaned her; "just because I'm a little inebriated sometimes".  Then she surprises me; "Now don't get offended or nuthin' but it was you white men than brought alcohol to us Indians, you know".  Just what the hell do you say to that?  I asked her if the rest of her family drank.  She said "Can you believe it?  They all quit!"

After several miles of long-ish silences punctuated by Joannie telling me about her family (including her good for nothing ex) and pointing out landmarks for events in her life ("this is where my cousin used to stay; I sell burritos there sometimes") she ask me; "do you have a girlfriend or somthin'?"  I explain that was married (my ringed finger was in plain sight on the steering wheel, but she was a bit distracted and forgetful) and my wife was working back home. She digs around in her cluttered purse and comes up with a handful of hand made beaded jewelery, selecting a very nice pair of black and blue beaded dangly  earrings...

... and asks; "do you think she would like these?"  I allowed as how I thought she would very much like them, and she hands them to me, saying again how much she appreciated the ride.  When we reach a Portland burb named Sandy (not far from Boring, Oregon- it's not bad enough growing up in a sprawlburb, but must it be actually named "Boring"?) I loaned her my cell to call her son.  Wasn't home.  So he called a niece; not home either.  Then she called her son's girlfriend, and sure enough, he was there.  "He's going right home now, so that he'll be there when I get there."  I still had my doubts about this whole "visit my son in a wheelchair" thing, and it didn't help that when we got to the block she had directed me to she said "you can just let me out here, we just passed his building."  I pulled over, she thanked me very graciously again while getting out of the truck, I said "good luck", she shut the door, and off she went, trundling back down the street, toting her coats and her purse that contained, among many other things, her jewelery projects, her food handler's certificate (for the burritos and fry bread she sells) and her all important Indian ID card.  It was a one way street, and I had to turn around anyway to, so I went around the block, just to check on her.  Sure enough, she was standing on the sidewalk talking to a man in a wheelchair.  His back was to me so I couldn't see his face, but he had a long, jet-black pony tail.  Shortly after picking her up, thinking that maybe I was going to get sucked into a family drama by helping a tipsy grandma run away from, whatever, I had asked Joannie if her son would be surprised and happy to see her.  "Of course he'll be happy to see me.  He's always happy to see his Mamma.  It might be his 50th, but he's still my baby".

After all that I still made it to the home of my dear friends Pat & Scott- my next generous hosts- in plenty of time to join them for another fantastic dinner, this time at a small, family run Italian restaurant that had an incredible deal on a three-course-with-wine-pairings special.  Homemade pasta, delicate, creative sauces, really interesting wines; I chose the confit entree- it's not often one find really high quality duck fat on the menu.  Next morning, coffee with Pat at a stellar coffeehouse (of which Portland has many) and a nice romp in the dog park with Oscar & Billie, and on to my final destination for this leg of the trip....


 Oceanside OR.  This is the sunset at Three Rocks Arch Marine Sanctuary, AKA, my front yard for awhile.  And just because I think they each have a little something that makes them special, I'm going to post some more shots of this same scene:
 

And this is the beach where I stood to take those shots, and where, if I can find the self-discipline to stick to it, I will be doing my Taijiquan routine every morning and evening...


... for which you will have to now excuse me; it's almost sunset again.

* From the Tom Waits song When All The World was Green.
 

Rock my world.

First, a paen to friends: at the risk of sounding like Capra character; I have the best friends a fella' could wish for. I can't imagine how I can ever repay them for the graciousness, generosity, hospitality and plain good company they've shared with me, on this trip, as always. I don't deserve them; all I can do is hope to someday have the opportunity to return the favor.

Snapped my fly rod.  My own fault; I know better than to pull at a snag that way.  Truth is, I was testing it, and deservedly, we both failed.  That's what I get for going cheap on the gear, then pushing it to see how much it could take. But when I bought it I wasn't sure I was going to take to this exceedingly fussy, ridiculously expensive blood sport, with the floating lines and the sinking lines and the weight balancing and the leaders and tippets and knots and gazillion different sorts of teeny little flies, not to mention that it took me two days studying the Oregon fishing regulations to figure out what kind of fish I was allowed to catch in what water with what gear, whether I could keep the big ones or the little ones, or, most often, none at all, and so on and so on.  But once I found the rhythm of this whole fly fishing deal, I did find it a very pleasant way to waste a day in what's left of the wilder bits of America.  If I lived near good fly fishing water I might be tempted to upgrade, but for now, it's back to Wal-Mart -unless I can find a good pawn shop deal first.

So with fishing suddenly and unexpectedly over for the time being, I pointed the Sabbatmobile back east, heading back over the Cascades to the dry side again, this time through Santiam Pass; much less dramatic, but it does have the advantage of not closing for the season at the first snowfall in October.  I hit cell coverage at the crest, called my friends in Bend, Sandy & Al, and asked; "what's for supper?"  Ravioli, turns out.  The next day was a regular work day for Al (an exceptional high-school biology teacher) so Sandy decided that a hike at Smith Rock, a few miles northeast of Terrebonne, would make a nice outing.  "Fantastic landscape" she says.  And she wasn't kidding...


 
However, she failed to mention the name of the trail leading to these views...


(The trail head -where we started- is down by that river, the Crooked River)



...: Misery Ridge.  Starting at 2,600 feet (above sea level; Bowling Green KY is 700) steep, no nonsense switchbacks proceed up another 600 feet to the top of the ridge.  I was panting like a dog, my poor old heart pounding to try and compensate for the thinning air. Misery Ridge indeed.  But, as you can see, the reward was rich.  The funny looking knob in the right foreground of the above image is called Monkey Face.  I'm not sure you can tell in this shot, but the reason for that name is obvious when you behold the real thing; a bit startling actually.  What I know you can't see in this shot is the two climbers standing on top of the monkey's head, like lice.  That's some serious technical climbing, and in fact Smith Rock is considered the birthplace of modern sport climbing.  The place was crawling with climbers, and they made my panting up a walking trail seem even more pathetic. But google it and you'll find that Smith Rock is a world class climbing destination, and so usually is crawling with climbers.  Rock lizards.  Once I might have been one of them, but that's one of many pastimes sadly no longer in the cards for me. I'm lucky to have survived Misery Ridge without strokin' out. But I'd do it again.


Tuesday, September 22, 2009

Volcanic trout

So a week has gone by since my last post. A very full week.  I intended to post more frequent entries, and will endeavor to not let a full week go by again.  To catch up...

After my night of mice and stars high in the Ochoco, I continued  westward, crossing from the "dry side" of the Cascade range; airy, open stands of Lodgepole Pine in the mountains, sage and juniper scrub in the lower desert, to the "wet" side; dense, mossy slopes of spruce, fir, hemlock and cedar, cut by clear, cold streams and rivers, via the McKenzie pass...

As you can see, even from these tiny images, this is some pretty dramatic scenery.  The dark rock is basalt; not-all-that-ancient cooled lava.  (That's North and Middle Sister Mountains in the background)   This is what underlies most of the high desert in this the part of the world; vast basalt fields like these, covered over time with a thin layer of soil, created by plant colonization and erosion, and cut by fantastic river gorges.  
 
Hunter S. Otter, posing at the McKenzie Pass, Mount Washington in the background.  Look closely, and to Hunter's left you'll see... Chicken.  A Yamhill county treasurer, on the "Chicken" team, was evidently toting Chicken around, posing (him?  her?  Impossible to tell without some rather invasive exploration of the nether regions, and since we had just met, that  just didn't seem the gentlemanly thing) at various Oregon sites of interest, in an effort to amass more images than the other Yamhill county office teams doing the same, presumably with different critters.  Spotting Hunter and I working the scenery, she rather forcefully approached, telling us that "she needed my animal."  Hunter was a bit put off by her forwardness and tone, but was typically gracious, agreeing to pose with this strange bird.    

Heading westward down towards the ocean, the landscape drops dramatically into the Willamette National Forrest, a very different environment from the high desert...





The images below are of the same spectacular tree I shared the campsite with, shot from different perspectives, once with my net and boots in the frame for size reference.
 
 And that, dear readers, is referred to as "old growth".  I reckon this Mountain Hemlock (Tsuga mertensiana) is at least 250-300 years old, well worth listening closely too.  And right behind -actually a bit under as well- you can see a bit of Lost Creek; a beautiful, clear-blue cutbank pool, perfect habitat for...
 
...trout.  This one is a Rainbow (Oncorhynchus mykiss). I also caught a mess of Coastal Cuthroat (Onchorhynchus clarki).  This was a pret'near perfect campsite for me, and I am deeply grateful for the good fortune of having stumbled upon it.  Now that I know it's there, I intend to visit again sometime.

So one goal achieved; actually catch a wild trout on fly fishing gear. (I know, I know, he doesn't look happy.  I don't blame him. But he seemed fine and lively when I let him go after his photo-shoot.)


Tuesday, September 15, 2009

Your'e Fired!

9:45 AM, Tuesday 9/15, Starbucks (I’m an addict, I admit it) in Prineville OR

Spent the night high up in the Ochoco National Forrest in central OR. Not an “official” campsite, but clearly a spot where humans hang out; nice flat creek bottom, brook chattering softly in the background, huge lodge pole pines looming into the dusk. No tent tonight, just a tarp under the stars. A nice hot cup of Lapsang Soushong (enhanced with some special medicinals, some of which were harvested only days before in Yellowstone) and a cup o’ noodles (I’m partial to Maruchen), comfy warm jammies (including a knit cap- it gets pretty damned chilly in the high desert at night) and I snuggled in to stare into the infinite star field, totally free of anthrogenic light pollution. And let me just say; it’s REALLY freakin’ infinite, y’all. In a mind blowing sort of way. Got me to thinking about my place in the cosmos, which got me to thinking about niches; the observation, from both a scientific and spiritual perspective, that all living things seem to have a special place, a unique assignment in the great ecosystemic web of being. A “job” of sorts. For a simple, commonplace example, rabbits; the rabbit’s job is to provide food. To be more brutally precise, to BE food, for a wide variety of predators. The populations of Canadian lynx and snowshoe hares follow the same wavelength; lot of hares = lots of lynx food = lot’s of healthy lynx litters. Too many lynx eating too many hares = not enough hares to support that many lynx, and hey-presto; not so many healthy lynx litters. So lynx and hare share a workplace; they maintain each others optimal population. Not consciously mind you. At least, I don’t think they think about this a lot. So, meditating into the star field, the question emerged; what is my –our, human’s- niche? Kind of a stumper for me.

So what is our job, exactly? Yeah, yeah, to obey our genetic imperative, to make more of us. But that’s true of every living thing, a universal autopilot driver, not a unique assignment to our particular species. Just where do we “fit” into the ecoweb? Have humans, by dint of evolving our big fat neocortex somehow escaped nature’s job placement mechanisms? And if so; is that a good thing, or a not so good thing. Here’s a thought worth pondering: if humans suddenly vanished from the scene (and it sometimes feels like we’re working at ensuring that happens, with our propensity for developing –and sowing- the seeds of mass destruction) it would not really effect much lasting change in the workings of planet earth. Life would quite happily go on without us. But if ants, on the other hand (according to E.O. Wilson) were to suddenly vanish, WE (homo sapiens sapiens) would be in serious trouble, because ants attend to a variety of vital ecosystem functions without which the whole machine as we currently understand it would eventually collapse. Now as thing go, what would probably happen is other critters would eventually move in to take over the ant jobs, but the point is that we humans seem sort of dispensable. Which, when meditating into an infinite star field, is not at all that hard to imagine.

Then the mice visited. The tarp I had spread was crinkly- noisy, and though I was quite motionless on a dead-calm night, it started to crinkle, unbidden.  I said (calmly, but aloud); “Hey. Who is here with me? This is my tarp, you know.” No answer. When it happened again, I was ready with my light, and was able to identify my visitors; deer mice. So I took another shot at opening a conversation, explaining that I understood I was the guest in their home, thanked them for their hospitality, and assured them that I meant them no harm but that I did expect the same from them; no biting, and no sharing of parasites. This triggered a long-ish explanation (from me, not the mice) of Lymes disease and the Black Plague, which obviously required a quick primer on European history… Anyway, they (I’m pretty sure there was more than one, though I concede that I only saw one, and one very fast mouse might have accounted for what I was hearing) seemed reassured, and started to converse with me; little squeaks, as god as my witness, little, chittering squeaks.  And they began to venture away from the relatively safe edges of the tarp to go galloping (I could now discern their footfall rhythms in the crinkling) across the central plains of my tarp. AND the mountain of my recumbent snuggled in self; parump parump parump, right across my (thickly blanketed) legs. Every now and then they would  pause to speak to me again; they clearly wanted something. I recalled some words from the poet/essayist Gary Snyder, about, in fact, the role of humans in the world (and I paraphrase wildly here); that while the deer faster, the wolf a keener hunter, the bear stronger, all the animals nonetheless loved us, because they loved our stories and songs. But by this time, I was getting really sleepy, so I said; “Mice, I would sing for you, but I’m very tired and need to sleep now. They squeaked, and galloped across my chest. So, though very tired, I started a halting, breathy, sleepy rendition of Stan Roger’s ballad The Northwest Passage, my standard singing-out-loud-in-the-hallowed-cathedral-of-the-wilderness tune. As always happens, once I get going with that song it energized me, and by the time I finished I was in full throttle. Which prompted a couple of coyote packs to start a ruckus in the surrounding hills. (I couldn’t quite tell if they were applauding or complaining- I don’t speak coyote all that well yet.) Which brought me back to pondering niches, which prompted me to remind my mice about their job, warning them that to hang out here in the open with me might not be such a good idea after all. Which got me to thinking about cougars, which are as fond of the Ochoco as I.  Which prompted me to explain to my mice that I had decided that I had reaped much benefit from the star field, but was now going to relocate to the sabbaticalmobile for the rest of the night. Which I did.

And this is my answer to the existential question posed by the stars: our "job" is to see, to understand, appreciate, and remember, in stories and songs. To be “the sentient ones”, the ones who can see both into the future and into the past, to use that great, long vision to do what we can to keep things in balance. Poetry, in other words, is our primary responsibility to the world, maybe even the cosmos. Poetry, and stewardship.

Hmmm. I guess I must be….. a SOCIALIST!!!! ARRRRHHHHGGGG!! GET HIM! BURN HIM!! (Presumably after I’m “taken down” with an expert shot from an assault rifle. sigh.  If there was a god and I were he I’m afraid I would be inclined to give bears the gift of poetry, and fire the whole lot of us nasty, stupid, selfish humans. Make us ants for awhile maybe, to remind us that it’s NOT, after all, all about us.)

Ok. Time to go fishing; this time for real. I can’t for the life of me imagine why fishing in the high DESERT (ie: places with little or no water) in September was so unsatisfying. But I’ll make the wet side of the cascades today for sure, find a river, maybe the Deschutes, maybe the McKenzie, maybe the Willamette-dammit, then; look out trout!

Here's a bunch of random images from the drive to Ochoco…

These were actually taken the night before, on the road (in some cases literally) from Twin Falls ID to Ontario OR, where I spent the night at the quintessentially Americana-ish Oregon Trail hotel.  The proprietors of which are, of course, East Indian.  The resolution of these iPhone captured web-scaled jpegs probably obscures the signage, but the big red neon letters fronting the building spell FIREWORKS, an ironically apt title for the pic, I thought.

 Hunter S., annoyed at my fussing around trying to capture clever compositions, slipped off by himself to, in his words; "just enjoy the damned sunset."

Again, I apologize for the shoddy resolution, but this is, yes, the Bates Hotel, on the outskirts of Vale OR.  Note the freshly turned grave-site-like excavations....  I think I'll take a pass on their offer of "Pizza by the SLICE!"  FWEE-FWEE-FWEE-FWEE...
 
Who knew?  In a little east-central OR town of John Day once thrived a bustling Chinatown?  Evidently word of Oregon's 19th century's mining interest's need  for cheap labor reached mainland China, prompting hundreds of Chinese men to make the perilous journey across the pacific in the hopes of earning enough to one day see their families again.  This little building became the center of Chinese culture for these lost souls, offering letter writing, traditional healing, foods and other "things from home".  America really is a fascinating blend of cultures- which to my mind makes the anti-immigrant bile coming  from "real" Americans all that much harder for me to take.
 

My first catch on my new fly fishing rig: the powerful and elusive Semoltilus atromaculatu.  Sometimes referred to (disparagingly, IMHO) as a common "Creek Chub".  I assure you, I was as surprised as he was when he came whipping out of the water at my head as I reared back for another cast.  Considering the cost of gear, fuel, food, lodging etc. I reckon this fish comes in at about the price of gold per ounce.  He was, to ease your mind, returned safely to his home following this photo-call.
This caught my attention.  Route 26 between Dayville and Mitchell, east-central OR.  It's shoes; a shoe tree.  The field behind the fence you can't see is scattered with evidence that not every shoe toss successfully achieves the branches.  I was particularly impressed with the hip waders.  I attribute it to teenagers, likely from the same school district. I wonder if they knew they were guerilla artists?

Hunter S. digging the shoe tree.  He thought it was tre' cool.

Sunday, September 13, 2009

Greasy Grass creek

11:15 AM, Sunday 9/13/09, the Java coffeehouse, Twin Falls MT 

Made the Greasy Grass Creek battlefield early afternoon Wednesday 9/10. Greasy Grass creek is what the people native to the high plains of Wyoming & Montana called the river we now refer to as the Little Big Horn. This was a real karmic gut-punch; if you've never been, and get an opportunity, definitely go. And give yourself a full day; there is a lot of hallowed ground to cover, and a lot of information to take in. If you've any imagination at all, the life-and-death reality of what went down there on June 25th & 26th, 1876 will make your heart flutter, and your bones go chill. That must have been one huge "oh, shit" for them poor Wasi'chu, and you can feel it when you stand there and see the last landscape they ever saw...

 The Cheyenne-Lakota camp was in the wooded river bottom in the background.

Most of them were immigrants, many who barely spoke English, or poor farm kids who joined the army for the pay.  And these were the little guys; because of their height (5' 7" or less) they were assigned to the cavalry: over 5’7”, infantry, 5’7” or under, and it was the cavalry for you, because you were considered light enough to not overburden the horse you would be riding.

The battlefield now lies inside the borders of Crow country, and most -if not all- of the memorial staff are Crow, which is a whole 'nuther story, 'cause earlier that century the Sioux had driven the Crow from their homeland in those high plains, which included this Greasy Grass creek valley. Sitting Bull, the medicine man/chief of the Hunkpapa Lakota who was seen as the spiritual leader of the resistance said of this; “we did as the white man does when he want the land.” So in 1876 at least, there was no love lost between the Crow and Sioux; it was Crow scouts employed by the feds that led Custer the Sioux camp on the banks of the Greasy Grass. Some of them were killed in the fighting too, and are memorialized along with the Cheyenne and Lakota warriors killed in the battle. (There were a few Arapaho braves involved as well, but it was evidently just a handful, prisoners of the Sioux, who, when they discovered that their captors were under attack, asked to be released and given their weapons back so they could fight the army too. They were, and they did.) So the "ranger talks" about the battle and the memorial, given by these Crow park rangers every hour or so, are worth the cost of admission by themselves. There is a newer "Indian Memorial" on the site now too; very moving, and definitely in the voice of the Indian people, as opposed to Euro-American historians. All of it, powerful, moving stuff, worth a pilgrimage. So say thousands of people that embark on it every year, from all over the world; China, Germany, Argentina, Nigeria. Worth a thoughtful pause, that. Why? How did the mostly manufactured myth of “Custer’s Last Stand” become a lasting world-wide phenomenon?

First, a little background reality check: it’s now well known that the popular image Custer’s heroic martyrdom is 98% pure pasture fed American bullshit. Custer, whatever his merits as a soldier- and those are controversial to this day- was also a preening, self-absorbed fool who looked good in leather, beautiful blond hair flying in the wind, which made him the darling of a sensationalist press, a fact he was well aware of and skillfully leveraged to his advantage at every opportunity. But on this day, he was simply a military officer who unilaterally disregarded direct commands to wait for reinforcement, and dismissed the expert advice of his Crow scouts, thus grossly underestimating the enemy force. Employing a strategy that worked well for him when he and his troops ambushed and destroyed a small, sleeping Cheyenne winter camp along the Washita river in western Oklahoma eight years before (a “victorious battle” that garnered GREAT press for "The Boy General" as he was often referred to in the press) Custer spread his underfed, poorly supplied and force-march exhausted troops too thin. Armed with single shot carbines and only as much ammo as he could carry per trooper, cut off from the rest of the regiment that was pinned down under heavy fire four miles away, it wasn’t long before he and the 250 troopers under his direct command ran out of ammo, and were overwhelmed. As Sitting Bull –a man famous for bluntly and accurately hitting the nail on the head- said later; “It is said that I murdered Custer.  That is a lie. Custer was a fool, who rode to his death.”

Of course, that’s not the story that got told. But the one that did; wow, what a story! Custer's widow, Elizabeth (“Libbie) Bacon Custer, all but broke when her husband’s bad investments inevitably collapsed (one of which was a scheme to sell cheap, shoddy horseshoes to the army) recovered and died a wealthy woman by writing pop novels about her life with the heroic General Custer. No fewer than four plays dramatizing this pop culture version of events made it all the way to Broadway. And then there was the great showman, William “Buffalo Bill” Cody, the ex soldier hired by the notoriously rapacious 19th century railroad barons to help exterminate the American Bison, who turned actor, impresario and producer, creating Buffalo Bill’s Wild West, a sophisticated theatrical production that became a huge international hit, touring all over the US and Europe. The show typically concluded with a melodramatic depiction of “Custer’s Last Stand", and that is how much of the world was introduced to the Battle of Greasy Grass creek.

So people come to the Little Big Horn Battlefield from all over the world, to touch this myth. What they find when the get there is that there’s nothing mythic about "Custer’s Last Stand". It’s just a story. A melodrama. With Garryowen played on a pennywhistle providing the melody. But if they open their minds and pay attention, there are people and events with genuine, serious mythical street-cred to be found here.

There was reason Custer faced such overwhelming odds at Greasy Grass creek. In the weeks preceding his ill considered attack, many hundreds of Lakota and Cheyenne had fled the appalling conditions and humiliations of the reservations, to join the resistance; a confederation of bands under the leadership Crazy Horse (Ogallala) and Sitting Bull (Hunkpapa), who had so far successfully resisted the forced domestication of the U.S. reservation policies. To those who had agreed to sign treaties and “come in” to the reservations, Sitting Bull said; “You are fools to make yourself slaves to a bit of fat bacon. What treaty has the white man made that he has not broken? I know that the whites will get me at last, but I will have good times until then.” His words, and his Sundance induced vision of soldiers dying and falling into the Lakota camp had touched the hearts of his people. By the time Custer’s regiment caught up with them, this resistance confederation had grown into the thousands, instead of the official military estimate of 800 Custer was working with. Warnings from his experienced scouts that this was the biggest camp they had ever encountered failed to persuade him to hold and wait for planned reinforcements. Big mistake.

But for all of its impact on popular imagination, the Battle of Little Big Horn was the beginning of the end of serious, armed resistance to America’s “Manifest Destiny”. In the immediate aftermath of the battle, Crazy Horse & Sitting Bull made the strategic decision to disband the confederation and flee on separate paths to the north, to escape the military retribution that was sure to be mobilized now. And it was, with vengence; shocked and outraged by Custer’s defeat, and under enormous public and political pressure to end this “Indian Problem” once and for all, the feds threw the entire western command of the army at the now scattered bands. While never quite catching up, the U.S. soldiers were able to successfully destroy or capture all of the Indians winter stores of food and supplies, including most of their horses. While Sitting Bull again managed to resist being forced onto a reservation by fleeing to Canada, most of the rest of the resistance –including Crazy Horse- soon starved, sickened and died, or returned voluntarily to the reservations, and within five years Sitting Bull himself was forced to concede that his way of life –and most of his people- were gone for good.

Oh, and if that "scorched earth" strategy of starving your opponent into submission by destroying everything in your path sounds sounds familiar? Within weeks after Lee’s surrender at Appomattox, General William Tecumseh Sherman was put in charge of all military activities west of the Mississippi; the Sherman of "Sherman's march to the sea" fame was now the army's designated "Indian Problem" guy.  In his defense, he was, after all, a soldier following the orders of his civilian superiors, just as we expect American soldiers to do.  But he despised the way the Indian people -who he came to know well and respect- were repeatedly betrayed by lying, scheming, corrupt politicians, and at least once, upon learning of another egregious example, publicly opined that he "wished congress could be impeached." 

So, humans make myths. Big deal; nothing new there. But I wonder if we couldn’t do a better job of vetting our stories for genuine mythical value? The myth of “Custer’s Last Stand” fell apart almost immediately, well earning the derogatory application of the word "myth"; myth as a pack of lies. But how about this: The world turns, and a proud, free race suddenly faces extinction at the hands of rapacious, treacherous invaders from the east who swallow or destroy everything in their path. But two heroes arise from the people and turn to face the monster; one a mysterious loner who appears from the wild mountains of the north, a warrior possessed of seemingly magical powers to cheat death in battle, who at every turn defeats or escapes the monster, and who ultimately leads his people into the final battle to protect their way of life.  The other a visionary, a shaman who sees and speaks the truth of this world AND the spirit world, a priest-poet whose ritually induced apocalyptic visions are time and time again proven true. And a glorious, victorious final battle, after which the people melt into the wilderness to disappear forever into the spirit world, where they live on in the storied memories of all peoples of the earth.

Now THAT'S a myth worthy of the name.

Wednesday, September 9, 2009

So I bought a pack of cigarettes...

...and Mrs. Wagner pies.

1:30 PM, 9/9/09 (an intriguing date, no?) Roasters coffee house, Red Lodge Montana

Whoa. By my (admittedly unreliable) math, it’s only been 39 hours since I logged a blog. (Ah-ah-ah; scatology is all in your mind.) I’m on one badass midway ride of emotions out here y’all. How on earth can I translate them into English? I am very tempted to just let this all “be” what it is and NOT try to fuss it into words. But this is one of the “Sabbatical Challenges” I’ve given myself, so on I plunge.

First, some technical information: the pathetic little wretch of a Kodak I had hoped to resuscitate into service recording images of this trip is stubbornly refusing to heal. So I beg your indulgence; I’m perfectly aware that my otherwise way cool iPhone makes a poor substitute for a real camera. I’ll have to make do.

Indian Country. I thought at first that this was an example capitalism at its sleaziest. Turns out I was in fact on the Potawatomi reservation, in northeastern Kansas So I filled up –that’s the sabbticalmobile at the pumps, and decided I would, whenever possible, buy my supplies on the rez.


 
(The view from my front -tent- door)                     
These are images from Niobrara State Park. Finally made it, at around 11:30 PM. Nearly full moonlight bright on a ridge overlooking miles of glowing river bottom; spectacular, and spooky as hell- never underestimate the humble prairie’s power to take your breath away. If the spirits of the Ponca ever visit their lost homeland it would surely be on nights like these. Of course some of them can just hop in the truck and drive a few miles. Not spirits though; living, breathing Ponca. Though forced, in 1877, to leave this valley and walk from here to their government chosen reservation in Oklahoma, their Chief, Standing Bear, refused to be a good little injun, and through very harsh winter weather, (“just going out for a little walk, dear”) walked back, and sued the federal government, winning an important legal precedent; that “Indians” were indeed, after all, human. Damned activist judges! But by that time the feds had abolished the Ponca’s tribal status (how does THAT work, by the way?) and so; no tribe, no reservation. They do, however, have an “agency” on 160 or so acres. Just a few miles downstream from their traditional homeland.

Wounded Knee, Pine Ridge Reservation
South Dakota, United States of America.


Not much of a town left; a raggedy ass tourist trap “museum” and a handful of dusty, pine-bough covered pole huts by the roadside devoted to “tourist information” and trinket sales, only two of which were occupied today. And, of course, the mass grave/memorial. Just as raggedy and covered with tokens, tobacco, sage and other ritual offerings, the memorial today was “staffed” by young woman and her toddler begging at the entrance of the memorial, and a drunk trying to pass his panhandling off as collecting a fee for his services as a memorial majordomo. Fortunately, Emma Ten Bears had warned me to “just ignore the kids and inebriated individuals” that hang out at the memorial, collecting “fees” from tourists visiting this memorial who didn’t know any better. Emma was today’s proprietor of one of the pine-bough huts; I got a very understated, somewhat routine but nevertheless authentic brief on the history of the massacre that is widely understood to be the last “battle” of America’s “Indian Wars.” God Bless Manifest Destiny. Wasn’t much of a battle; the U.S. Army 7th cavalry regiment, waiting in ambush and fueled by booze and pure race-hatred, slaughtered 300 mostly unarmed mostly old mostly sick women, children and old men. I’m sure the fact that the 7th was formerly Custer’s regiment had NOTHING at all to do with this brutal outcome. Here’s something Emma told me that I didn’t know; in the infamous photo, Bigfoot in Death depicting the old chief’s frozen corpse, what I always took for a scarf worn against the cold…
…is in fact a rag placed by the photographer. To hide the gore of his having been scalped.
silence


long silence



I left Pine Ridge in the late afternoon, driving around the back of the Badlands National Park, and just made Wyoming before I conked out and spent the night in the sabbticalmobile, in the Best Western parking lot in Sundance Wyoming (no, definitely NOT that Sundance) whereupon it was discovered that the seal on one of the topper windows wasn’t. Sealing, that is. I discovered this, when, upon apparently reaching critical volume, a good cup of cold rainwater was suddenly and summarily dumped onto my not-sleeping-anyway recumbent self. I was also reminded that the living quarters of the sabbiticalmobile don’t allow much room to “jump away from” unexpected and unpleasant sensory experiences. Oh well. Dawn was gray, drizzly, cold and windy enough to make “living in the moment” not all that pleasant. But by the time I had climbed to the high bluff plains around Sheriden Wyoming, the weather turned friendly- really, really friendly. ATT wireless coverage was spotty though, so when I found myself (temporarily) in range, I left the freeway and drove up into the hills to find a nice spot to tend to real world emails and phone calls and such. Which turned out to be in the shade of a stack of hay bales. The accommodations were, let’s say rustic –very rustic- but the view was killer.

 
 (Hunter S. Otter in the hay)

(Rustic accommodations, but dig the view!)
It was right about now, when I got back to chewing up freeway miles, that the spirits of Neal Cassady and Hunter S. Thompson found me, and I felt a surge of gut-level appreciation for the 75-so-really-80-85 mph speed limits of Wyoming and Montana; Hup Hup! Yass… zoom, man, zoom into the high blue Montana afternoon! Hunter S. and Neal urged me to “go on, man, SMOKE ‘em if ya got em!” And I did have them. I bought a pack of unfiltered Senecas at the Indian Country Mini-Mart in Kansas, so I would have a tobacco offering on hand when I got to Wounded Knee and the Little Big Horn battlefield.  I didn't, but I did christen Otter Hunter S. Otter, in the spirit of things.

Sunday, September 6, 2009

The sabbatical search for...?

So, my first blog post. Be patient; I'll get better as I go along. I'm starting out with a travelogue of my cross country camping trip out west, made possible by Western Kentucky University, which kindly rewarded my 8 years in the trenches as department head of the Department of Theatre and Dance with a (one semester) sabbatical. I do have a couple of creative projects in the works -more on those later- but for now, the focus of my musings will be the trip itself.

The idea is -was- to camp & fish my way from my home in Kentucky to the coastal community of Oceanside, Oregon, where my friends own a vacation home that they have VERY generously offered to me, to use as a "retreat" for my sabbatical. There's a lot of America in between Kentucky and the Oregon coast, and the route I'm taking is more-or-less improvisational, with this one constant as a guiding principle: a pilgrimage to sites connected to the demise of the Amerindian cultures that once lived in the land through which I will be traveling; the Lakota, Ponca, Cheyenne, Arapaho, Crow and Nez Pierce, to name just a few.

I say "was" the idea, because life happens as it will, heedless of my little desires and plans: not long ago my step father Ed Rodakowski, a talented (visual) artist and teacher, discovered he has been harboring a rare and very aggressive form of lung cancer, particularly dangerous because of its tendency to grow and metastasize asymptomatically- under the radar. Which it did; by the time it manifested symptoms, it had already spread widely throughout his body. So a trip to the VA in Minneapolis (he's a Viet-Nam vet) was in order first.

(My wife Mary Ann has created a Caring Bridge website for Ed; if you want to know more about his journey, navigate to http://www.caringbridge.org/visit/edwardrodakowski)

And then too, I underestimated two things; how much drive-time my decision to follow a non-freeway route would add to the trip, and how much drive-time I would loose doing this blog thing. Hopefully, as I learn more about "mobile blogging" from my iPhone, the impact of that second issue will diminish.

So, to catch up...

 (Otter, my assistant chronicler, on the hood of my '92 Toyota long bed sabbaticalmobile.)

(10:30 PM Friday 9/4/09) Finally broken orbit and on the road. First intended stay; Niobrara State Park in Nebraska, near the traditional homeland of the peaceful Ponca, the remnants of whom were force marched on foot 550 miles to "indian ...territory" in present day Oklahoma during the summer of 1877- it didn't work out very well for them. You've heard of "the Dred Scott decision"; look into the case of "Standing Bear vs. Crook".


(12:30 PM Saturday 9/5/09) Overslept at lake Wappapello; praise be the Huddle House diner off 67 in Leadington MO. On to the Haskell Indian Nations University outside Lawrence KS, then north to the confluence of the mighty Missouri & the Niabrara.

 (Couldn't resist: a little Branson wannabe in quaint but remote Steelville MO)

Well, I made it as far as the Best Western in Lawrence KS.  Still falling behind schedule, but showered and rested up, I'll be hitting the road soon- destination still Niabrara State Park in Northeastern Nebraska.  TTFN.